When we landed in Geneva about a month ago, our driver, who knew that we would be driving also to Italy, France, and Spain, offered the following memorable observation about drivers in Southern Europe: "The Italians are unconscious, and the French are sadistic maniacs."
The Swiss drivers, on the other hand, are exactly as you would have expected: obedient, predictable, and sensible. Switzerland, I must say, is a spectacularly beautiful country, something I had never realized before driving through much of it. Italian drivers are, indeed, a bit unconscious, but not malicious. For those of you who are also New Yorkers, think: the Belt Parkway when it is not rush hour (but minus the hatred). You can really fly on Italian highways, and unlike New York (or Texas) drivers, cars pass only on the left, never on the right. But there are no speed limits to speak of on the main highways, and the left lane is not for the timorous. But one does make good time!
The French are a bit nastier, as our Swiss driver implied. During the nearly 3000 km I drove in Southern Europe last month, I got the finger from other drivers only twice, both times in France: once for failing to get out of the left lane quickly enough for a psychopath flashing his lights at me (while I was going 145 km/hour!) and once for flashing my lights at a driver going merely 120 km/hour in the left lane when I wanted to pass.
The Spanish, by contrast, are close to being the Swiss of Southern Europe--though I gather this is a somewhat recent development as the government has cracked down on Italian-style lawlessness. But the Spanish are sensible drivers, and less prone to the bizarre tail-gaiting at 140 km/hour that is so characteristic of the Italians and the French.
The worst part of driving in Southern Europe is not the highways, which are generally in good condition and move quickly (though there are far too many stops for exorbinant tolls in France). What is really hair-raising is driving in the cities, not because of the cars, but the motor bikes (when gas costs about eight U.S. dollars per gallon, you can understand why there are so many motor bikes!). The motor bikes do not observe lanes, and they weave in and out, without regard to the rather serious damage a car weighing thousands of pounds might do to their flimsy scooter, not to mention their flesh and bones.
All that being said, driving in Southern Europe was a fine experience...but I'm a New Yorker, so this may not be for everyone.
We received lots of great travel tips from readers, for which my sincere thanks. Here's some tips of our own:
1. In Florence, the San Gallo Palace (where NYU put up many conference participants) is quite nice, though about a 20-minute walk from most tourist attractions--a burden and a blessing, of course. For families, ask for rooms 115-116, which can be connected and turned into a large suite and a have a huge outdoor terrace. On the square next to the San Gallo, are two attractive restaurants: Alfredo's is simple and family-friendly, good for pizza and pastas; Perseus is carnivore heaven, with excellent Florentine beefsteak, among other delights. Be forewarned that during peak tourist season, the major Florence museums now have really huge lines (much worse than 15 years ago). The Da Vinci museum was a hit with our children.
2. The Methis Hotel in Padua was very nice and a reasonable walk to the center of town--the Giotto frescoes are in a church a bit farther (still walkable), but they are really quite spectacular. (David Owen [Ariziona] said they were the best frescoes in Italy, and that may well be true.] The train to Venice is fairly quick from Padua.
3. Tossa de Mar on the Costra Brava proved pleasant, but the cuisine is uneven. The two big winners for dining are Bahia and Castell Vell. You'll need sea shoes for the beach in Tossa!
4. In Barcelona, Gaudi's Casa Batllo is wonderful for both adults and children. It was not open when we were last there in 1997, but we were very glad to see it this time.
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